Ingo WIlts struck a balance between the brand’s sartorial heritage and the casualization trend working a charming palette.
The stately Palazzo del Senato venue for the Boss show — dotted with trees that the brand will donate to the city of Milan and take care of for two years — was also brightened by the bold color that ran throughout the spring collection marking the 20th anniversary since it unveiled women’s wear.
Ingo Wilts, chief brand officer at Hugo Boss, said postshow he wanted to convey “a nature, organic feel” — and of lightness, one might add. The mood came through in a masterfully embroidered floral pattern that adorned white pantsuits and pencil skirts — the fruit of a collaboration with British artist William Farr.
Colors ranging from mint green — a daring shade for men’s wear — to fuchsia and powdery blue burst onto tailoring in slightly boxy proportions for men and women, paired with hooded sweaters or knitted bandeau tops, respectively.
Wilts said he started developing the collection “on the dressy side,” in keeping with the brand’s heritage, but veered toward a more casual offering with the advent of lockdown attire. Cue the featherweight parkas and drawstring pants in crisp, technical fabrics.
Sinuous knit dresses featuring holes exposing a shoulder here, a hip there looked sensual and cozy, while oversized grommets, intended to add “extra lightness,” as Wilts put it, were playful touches adorning the bottom half of coats, tailored jackets and dress shirts.
This was a carefully orchestrated and well-curated show, proving that a lineup focused on wearable clothes needn’t be boring. Happy anniversary!